Day 1: August 8th

Greeted by Paul Morralee at the Silver Islet docks, one is immediately stuck by a care and fastidiousness that replicate itself in every area of Porphyry Island lighthouse. Ropes, fuel, ice, and other supplies are meticulously loaded prior to the hour and a half trip out to the light.

Skippering a 1955 wooden 26-footer, we learn some of Paul’s story: growing up in the rarified precincts of the world’s oldest English university town, Oxford, he moved as a boy to Deep River, Ontario where his dad worked at the Chalk River nuclear plant. After some stints in Prince Albert, SK, Toronto, and Ottawa , Paul settled in Thunder Bay where he has worked as a documentary film maker ever since.

Morralee has the eye of an artist with the temperament of a managing director, which is essentially what he is with CLLS. The group has been at it for three years now, and the attention to detail is noticeable.

We alight to a brand new spruce dock and begin the 15- minute walk along the path to the base of the light and the surrounding buildings. The walk itself is a botanical treasure-trove, running straight through with trees on either side dripping with bearded moss that make it look pre-historic; and even though the lake is no more than a hundred metres away, the forest floor is absolutely silent. Even after less than 24 hours, I can say with certainly that this walk will be something I’ll most remember.

The light itself is a good climb, and the top rewards us with an unmatched view of the entrance to Black Bay, the Sleeping Giant and surrounding islands, including an unimpeded view of the entire length of Isle Royale, the closest piece of American shoreline, that on a map looks like it should be part of Canada.

I am joined by my 16-year-old son, Hannibal and our dog Puff, a King Shepherd, who will enjoy free reign over the island during our five day stay. Also on Porphyry are artist in residence Lois Nuttall, a gifted photographer who perches here and there throughout the day (and night: her pictures of the night skies are downright spectacular).

Paul is responsible for this initiative along with everything else that goes on here at the light. Also spending the balance of the summer with Paul are “Student Lighthouse keepers” university students Lissi Ranta and Stephanie Cressman, who study at the universities of Manitoba and Lakehead respectively.

First impressions of this magical place.

Tomorrow’s entry: a Q and A with Paul about his vision for Porphyry specifically and the wider umbrella of other Canadian Lighthouses of Lake Superior.